Pat beef cheeks dry with paper towels. Mix cumin, smoked paprika, garlic powder, oregano, cayenne, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Rub the mixture evenly over all sides of the cheeks, pressing gently to adhere. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Preheat your smoker to 275°F using mild wood (oak or hickory work well). Beef cheeks can handle smoke but don't need heavy wood smoke.
Place cheeks bone-side down directly on the grate. Smoke for 3 hours uncovered, until the surface firms and takes on color.
While the cheeks cook, toast the ancho chiles in a dry skillet for 1 minute per side. Cover with boiling water and let steep 15 minutes until soft. Blend with beef broth, minced garlic, and vinegar until smooth. Strain through a fine sieve.
After 3 hours, wrap each cheek tightly in foil along with the onion quarters and pour the ancho mixture over them. Fold foil tightly and return to the smoker.
Continue smoking until the internal temperature reaches 203°F in the thickest part of the largest cheek (about 2.5 to 3 more hours). The meat should shred easily with a fork.
Remove from smoker and let rest in the foil for 20 minutes. The carryover heat finishes the collagen breakdown.
Unwrap cheeks and shred the meat with two forks, discarding any remaining fat or sinew. Mix the shredded meat with the braising liquid and onions.
Serve in warm tortillas with diced onion, cilantro, lime, and salsa.
Keep the Smoke Light on Beef Cheeks
Beef cheeks have rich fat and benefit from smoke flavor, but they don't need aggressive smoking. Oak or hickory at a gentle thin-blue-smoke level is perfect—heavy mesquite or oak can overpower the delicate spice rub and the meat's natural savory depth. The long braise in foil will intensify flavors, so don't overdo it on the front end.
FAQ
How do you know when beef cheeks are done smoking?
Beef cheeks are ready when the internal temperature hits 203°F (measured deep in the thickest cheek with a meat thermometer) and a fork or skewer slides through the meat with almost no resistance. Don't rush them—they need at least 6 hours total to break down the collagen into silky gelatin.